Places to visit
Dolceacqua
Dolceacqua, one of the medieval villages of the Val Nervia, is dominated by the Castello Doria, which was originally built in the 12th century, and extended in the 14th. The interior has recently been completely refurbished, and it is now used for cultural functions during the summer. The River Nervia winds its way through the centre of the village; the medieval bridge that spans it just beneath the castle was famously painted by Claude Monet in 1884 (Monet lived in Bordighera for many years). The old part of the village consists of tall houses and narrow streets, forbidden to motor vehicles, and is one of the most picturesque villages in all of Liguria. At the end of August there is a spectacular fireworks display here. It is also the home of the celebrated Rossese di Dolceacqua red wine.
The perched villages
These are all situated in stunning locations:
- Apricale is another medieval village and cultural centre, and in the castle there (the Castello della Lucertola) exhibitions are held from time to time by a variety of artists.
- Perinaldo perches high up on the hill overlooking Apricale, and there are breathtaking views of the mountains and of the sea in the distance.
- Pigna is another pretty village with its concentric medieval lanes rising up the hill, likewise Castelvittorio above it.
Rocchetta Nervina
This is the nearest village to Villatalla. The little road which branches off from the main Dolceacqua - Pigna road terminates here, so it is very quiet! In summer it is possible to walk up the little river from the village and find any number of fresh water pools which are superb for swimming. Also situated here is the “Rio Barbaira” restaurant which serves wonderful Ligurian food (the home-made ravioli is divine) at very reasonable prices.
Isolabona
The next village up from Dolceacqua, Isolabona hosts an international harp festival every July in the restored castle. Also during the two weekends before Christmas, the festival of the “Antichi Mestieri” is held in the medieval part, where many of the houses are transformed into traditional medieval shops and inns. In the village are to be found two outstanding restaurants, the “Vecchio Forno” where you can find the best pizza in the region, and “Bruno’s”, another quality family run restaurant which is excellent value.
Gola di Gouta
Just before reaching Pigna there is a road that branches off to the left and climbs up Monte Gouta, winding its way through enchanting woods up to the Gola di Gouta at the top, about 4,000 feet above sea level. The air here is fresh even in the height of summer, and the restaurant is excellent! It boasts the most unbelievable views, and is wonderful walking country.
Triora
This village, which once again is perched on top of a hill, was fortified in the 13th century and survived many sieges, and in the 16th century it became famous for its witches who were expert healers, but following a famine for which (of course) they got the blame, many were put to death.
Realdo
Up in the mountains behind Triora, stunning Realdo perches on a sheer crag amidst amazing mountain scenery.
Hanbury Gardens
The gardens, founded by Sir Thomas Hanbury of London in 1867, are situated at La Mortola, very close to the French border, and extend from the main coastal road down to the sea. It is the largest botanical garden in Europe, and contains plants from all over the world. With its stunning location, for anyone remotely interested in gardens this is definitely not to be missed.
Ventimiglia
This is the nearest town to the border with France. It was important in Roman times, and there is still a Roman theatre which can be visited. The old town (Ventimiglia Alta) on the west side of the Roja river is the most interesting, with its 12th century castle, and Romanesque "cattedrale" which has traces from the 8th century. The newer part of the town is perhaps best known for its cheap booze shops and the famous Friday market, where many people come from France to stock up.
At nearby Balzi Rossi, adjacent to the Hanbury Gardens at La Mortola, there is a museum exhibiting one of the most important pre-historic deposits in Europe, found in caves there, including three skeletons estimated to be 30,000 years old, adorned with shell necklaces. The caves can also be visited. (There are some good beaches in that area).
Bordighera
Bordighera was basically founded by the British. Apart from its excellent beach, and a truly charming little old town, there are public gardens which are quite beautiful; Bordighera is world famous for its palm trees. There is a big market here every Thursday that extends all along the sea front. Claude Monet lived in the town for many years, as did Clarence Bicknell, the celebrated British explorer and naturalist who discovered the rock carvings in the Vallée des Merveilles (in the Parc du Mercantour) across the French border.
Seborga
In a neighbouring valley, Seborga is another perched village, but with the difference that it is still an independent Principality (like Monaco) with its own Prince (actually the local butcher). It is a real curiosity, and well worth a visit.
San Remo
San Remo is a grand, old seaside resort, with many prestigious hotels, and quite a large yacht harbour, and is very much an international centre (the famous San Remo Festival for Italian pop artists is held here annually in February). It is an excellent shopping centre, with a big market on Tuesdays and Saturdays. As well as its Casino, it has many fabulous buildings, including the San Siro Cathedral of the 13th century.
Bussana Vecchia
This medieval village, situated inland between San Remo and Arma di Taggia, was almost completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1887. It is now occupied by a community of international artists who have made studios out of the ruins.
Ceriana
Ceriana is a beautiful hill town, the only one in the upper Armea valley that is inhabited. It has tall houses with narrow roads connected by stairways and vaulted passages, with pretty churches and an oratory. The town has a long tradition of choral singing, boasting several top quality choirs (both male and female), who perform especially around Easter and during the festival of the Madonna della Villa at the end of August.
Taggia
This is one of the loveliest medieval villages in Liguria, with vaulted buildings, the fountains known as “braki”, the long bridge across the river and the richly artistic San Domenico Convent. It is the place from where the superb Ligurian “taggiasca” olive originates. In mid-February the delightful festival of San Benedetto takes place in the village, where many of the locals dress up in medieval costume and perform mini-plays in the streets and squares, whilst in another area there is an extensive farmers’ market.
Imperia
The capital of the westernmost province of Liguria, Imperia is really two towns joined together, Porto Maurizio and Oneglia. The most interesting part is the citadel that overlooks Porto Maurizio, where there are many grand buildings, particularly the Convent of Santa Chiara which is in a stunning location. The Duomo is also situated here, though it is perhaps more interesting for its proportions than its architecture.
France
There are also, of course, a great many places to see in the south east corner of France, such as Monte Carlo, Menton, Nice and the other towns and villages of the Cote d'Azur, Grasse which is the perfume capital of France, St.Paul-de-Vence (famous for the Fondation Maeght which exhibits works of 20th century artists), and the villa and gardens of Ephrussi de Rothschild at St.Jean-Cap-Ferrat. There are some wonderful walks in this region, both along designated coastal paths, and inland.
The extraordinary Vallée des Merveilles, in the huge Parc National du Mercantour, is most easily accessed from the village of St Dalmas-de-Tende in the Val Roja (above Ventimiglia). The park is dominated by Monte Bego, a historically sacred mountain of 2,870 metres beneath which are to be found tens of thousands of rock carvings and engravings which date back to between 3,200BC and 1,700BC. These can be accessed either on foot or in 4 x 4s driven by a guide. With the bonus of wildlife that you normally do not see anywhere else in this region, it makes for a quite fascinating day out.
